TURO-TURO PHILIPPINE CAFE
26a Mayfair Place, Glen Innes, Auckland
(09) 528 6050
As my visit to Turo-Turo (literally, 'point-point', from the stalls where people would point at their food) was my first exposure to Philippine cuisine, any review of the Cafe will inevitably involve my thoughts on Philippine food as a whole.
Philippine cuisine is like a four-car pile up between an Audi, an eighteen-wheeler, an SUV, and an old Ford Escort. Flavours and concepts that you wouldn't normally expect together combine on the plate and sucker punch the palatte. "Take savoury, add sweet" seems to be the order of the day - from sweetened spaghetti to cheese-flavoured ice cream.
Inside, it looks like a typical ethnic cafe in suburban Glen Innes - posters of the Manila skyline (complete with smog), pictures of the stalls where the cafe gets its name, and Turo-Turo t-shirts cover the walls. The tables are clean and uncovered and the service is friendly and familiar.
I start off with siopao, reminiscent of the pork buns I used to eat back in Samoa. This is my first exposure to the contradiction that is Filipino food - the pork is tasty and nicely cooked with (maybe) a hint of vinegar, contrasted completely by the syrupy sweet gravy and the sweet doughy bun that surrounds it. Delicious and supposed to be eaten as a side but the size of them (almost as big as my hand) together with the sweetness makes me wonder if I made a mistake ordering a mains.
Nevertheless, I push on with the Pinoy Spaghetti - (sweet) pasta topped with ground beef and cheese, with a piece of garlic bread and a Joyful Chicken drumstick. The garlic bread is unremarkable (been there, had that territory) and the pasta, although cooked perfectly, just tastes like spaghetti bolognese with sugar added. The star of the dish though, is the Joyful Chicken. The chicken skin is crispy, with a salty/sweet coating. The meat underneath is juicy and for once I don't feel like I need a roll of paper napkins to mop up the grease from fried chicken. Damn, really should have just had that!
After seeing some of the desserts on the Cafe's Facebook page, I had to make room for the Brazo de Mercedes, a meringue dessert similar to a roulade, with a custard and almond filling. After the contrasting flavours of the previous two courses I expect it to be served with a fillet of beef on top but alas, no, just whipped cream. It's a light ending to a filling and reasonably priced meal.
I was very happy with my first foray into the food of the Philippines, thanks to Turo-Turo, and will definitely be back. I would recommend it to anyone who wants a well-priced meal with a few friends in simple, friendly surroundings.
One last note: I saw on the menu that Turo-Turo offers sirloin, chips, and salad if you 'don't feel like Filipino'. I would politely suggest to anyone who orders steak and chips at a Filipino cafe to rethink their choice...
...right before I take them out and shoot them.
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